.54 Cal Green Mountain LRH, Prep for upcoming Cow Elk Hunt

Stick shooter, I used to have really good accuracy with the tc maxi hunters that people never liked, I ordered a heavy conical like Lewis has the 54-510m, I’m just waiting for it to arrive, ( turn around time is roughly 6 weeks) so I have a few more weeks to go thanks

Ivan Wagurak wrote:Sorry George I miss read that yes I do have a bore scope and everything appears to be fine in the barrel

That is good news. I was wondering if you might need to lap the bore. If it were my rifle I would probably clean the bore real good with JB bore paste, Kroil, and alot of patches over a cleaning jag. Always have a rod guide on the range rod to protect the crown.

stikshooter wrote:

George_Kelley wrote:

Ivan Wagurak wrote:Its kind of funny I actually have the lee real 54 380gr mold just haven’t used it due to the numerous complains about poor accuracy

I would experiment to see what happens. Two rifles of the same make and model, same caliber, might like two different loads.

I would also try the T/C Maxi-Balls, but I very much think the best accuracy will be the paper patched heavy conicals that Idaho Lewis is using.

BTW, try the liquid alox on the REAL bullets as well as borebutter and other lubricants to see what works best in your rifle. Also try the felt wads over the powder. Might also try a cardboard wad with a grease cookie.

Absolutely (DO NOT) use bore butter /Alox ,Try using Lewis (modified) NASA lube on any conical (knows what works) and proves it ,if you can't find it ask him ! I have even used it for patch lube if handy ,,and a dry felt (over sized) from a sheet supplied by Dura felt and a Harbor Freight punch set (cheap) $15.00and gives you quite a few caliber sizes  .A lot of this is demonstrated on
you tube by Idaho Lewis

I say experiment and see what happens.

You have a Lee REAL bullet mold that you never used because people said it's not accurate. Again, two identical rifles of the same make, model, and caliber may like different loads. Find out what your rifle likes.

Yes, do use Idaho Lewis's lubricant. I also very much advise purchasing a clone of his paper patch bullet molds, those paper patched bullets are amazing.

George I’ll definitely give it a go and see what happens. I’m not opposed to them. I have a bunch poured to try. I also got my hands on some 3f to play with and see it that help too. I’ll let you know when I get out to the range. I think I’m going this weekend so I’ll let you know. Thanks

I just got to thinking….. I may try the prb’s right off again just use a different lube and .018” ticking. My ne used to shoot them really well. I just don’t remember shooting it when it was 20*f out side. You all had some good suggestions. I’ll mull them over for a day or so. I’ll probably go to the range this Sunday so that won’t be too long of a wait and let you know on those at least and maybe even the 380gr lee reals while I’m out at the range

Try different lubricants for the bullets and patches for the ball.

Also note that temperatures will affect velocities and point of impact. Lay out some centerfire cartridges in the sun on a hot summer day and you will get higher velocities which will change the point of impact. My advise is to get a marksman's data book, available from Brownell's, and take notes on your shooting.

Good point George, I had actually thought of the cheat sheets for my 300wsm but never crossed my mind with Muzzleloading. I’ll have to bring paper and “pencil” tomorrow lol It’s supposed to be cold and snowing like a banshee

I’m also fine with the variations of impact higher and lower with the temp I just want to get it shooting accurately but I will definitely start keeping record of temperatures weather and baro if I remember the last, thanks George

Alright every one…. I just got back from the range. Had better success from my ne today with prb’s. I didn’t get the chance to try the lee reals so I’ll save those for next time. Also ran out of patches too. I started with a lower charge than usual worked up an acceptable load at 50 yards to move out to 100 yards on the next run. I kept my .020” pre lubed patches in my pocket and only pulled them out when I loaded the gun, so that part is different for me. Started at 60gr 3f t7, black is scarce right now so subs are it for the moment. Dry swab between shots (for the range only, The 60gr gave 2” groups, fouling was minor no issues there. Moved to 70gr everything else stayed the same groups shrunk to 1”. I did forget to swab between a few along the line but didn’t effect any thing. So I shot 2 groups same charge both 1” groups. Things are looking up so I went to 80gr. Well things went south on me fouling is a problem now hang fires are present accuracy opened to 3” so 70gr is it with this powder, gun, patch and ball.progress is progress. forgot to mention I am using musket caps. I can’t feel my fingers well enough when it’s warm never mind when it’s cold out like it is today lol

When I go back to the range I’ll see if the 80gr is really too much or if my ne was just that dirty and fouled out that it was causing issues

Disregard the top left that was the first shot just to dirty the barrel and get point of impact to get started. The 2 separate groups have 3 shots each and there are 3 on the lower right of the bullseye that I covered were the 60gr charge, I actually started off using .018” ticking but those patches were blown (not enough lube or I forgot to rinse the sizing out of the fabric one of the 2) so I switched to my .020” prelubed patches a lot on the right side let me tell you but no blown patches though but I liked the 70 well enough to shoot a second group to try to make 1 ragged hole but ended up slightly lower and slightly left of the first group

Looks good Ivan

Hey Lewis what are you getting across the chrono with 70gr 3f t7? Out of curiosity. I have to cut more patches and do a better job of lubing them. I tried the cutting fluid idea but I think mine was more of just a coolant type. I’ll have to double check the thickness on my ticking too, to make sure when it’s under compression that it’s not too thin

Got the new accurate mold in 2 days ago cast up a bunch of each 54-510M weighing 516gr +or-1 grain diameter is .543”. and the 50-450M weighing 452gr +or-1 grain diameter is .506” with dead soft lead. Haven’t shot any yet still waiting for my new rear sight to come in

That Bullet looks Familiar  The only thing i did different with mine was I did away with the Bevel Base, I prefer a Straight Flat Base instead of a Bevel.

yah that ne of mine seemed to really like the modified minie, that weighed 485 grains after I modified the mold, so I figured I’d give it a whirl. and you seemed quite fond of your 54-510m mold

Ivan Wagurak wrote: yah that ne of mine seemed to really like the modified minie, that weighed 485 grains after I modified the mold, so I figured I’d give it a whirl. and you seemed quite fond of your 54-510m mold

My #54-510M is probably my all time Favorite .54 Cal Bullet, it’s a Toss up between my 54-510M and 54-485 i Bullet, Both Bullets shoot EXCEPTIONAL in my Rifles

Idaholewis wrote:

Ivan Wagurak wrote: yah that ne of mine seemed to really like the modified minie, that weighed 485 grains after I modified the mold, so I figured I’d give it a whirl. and you seemed quite fond of your 54-510m mold

My #54-510M is probably my all time Favorite .54 Cal Bullet, it’s a Toss up between my 54-510M and 54-485 i Bullet, Both Bullets shoot EXCEPTIONAL in my Rifles

I actually looked at the I bullet but I was torn so I got the 54-510M who knows I may get the I mold too

Got the new sight bolted down just need to shoot it. Good thing I pulled the original off the hold down screws weren’t tight as you can see in one of the photos. Before I pulled the old sight off I set the new on to the old one so I’d at least be pretty close to where I was, it’s supposed to rain tomorrow and Saturday so looks like Sunday is my next day

Looks Good Ivan  Those Williams are really good sights, I have a few of them. You can get what’s called a Gib Lock for it, it allows you to make quick field adjustments without the need of a little Flat head Screwdriver

This is the Giblock


And here you can see one on the side of one of my Williams FP Hawken’s, they work SLICK

I had actually wanted to get the extra knobs but every one is sold out. When I ordered my Williams I got the last one if I remember the site said “in stock soon order now” so I did the next day I check it said sold out and unavailable

I feel you are better off with the Manual adjust like you have, Just ad the Gib Lock is the ideal way to go in my opinion. I have 2 of the Target Knob versions, But i prefer them without it. The problem with the Target Knobs is they Run on a Worm gear setup,   So lets say you have the Gib lock, You loosen the Gib and you have to keep Twisting the Knob to move the sight, it’s SLOW, if you don’t have the Target Knob, you simply loosen the Gib and Slide the Sight where you want it, lock it back down with the Gib and you are done

Idaholewis wrote:I feel you are better off with the Manual adjust like you have, Just ad the Gib Lock is the ideal way to go in my opinion. I have 2 of the Target Knob versions, But i prefer them without it. The problem with the Target Knobs is they Run on a Worm gear setup,   So lets say you have the Gib lock, You loosen the Gib and you have to keep Twisting the Knob to move the sight, it’s SLOW, if you don’t have the Target Knob, you simply loosen the Gib and Slide the Sight where you want it, lock it back down with the Gib and you are done

So how does that work with either a target knob or the one I have? I can probably make a gib lock screw that’s similar. I haven’t been able to play yet. I know how the gib lock functions it’s the rest of it is what I’m asking

With the Target knobs they simply turn, Nothing locks them from turning.